VFT Maisie in upcycled Nani Iro

I have been sewing ... I really have. Not as much as I would have like to, but ... yeah. But Pokemon.

Despite my posts being about my stuff most of the time, I actually make quite a fair bit of stuff for the kiddos. Making little dresses are not any "easier" in terms of construction, but I can see why a lot of sewists have a preference for making them. For one, no curves. Yep, no faffing around with SBA/FBA, sway-back adjustments, 4 sizes difference between top and bottom etc ... and kids are ALWAYS photogenic. For real. They could be pulling the goofiest faces, having pre-breakfast grumps or just not staying still and they still look good in photos. Or maybe I'm obsessed with my own offsprings' perfection hence the bias.




Ok, I've stopped laughing. Mum jokes ... heh.

Anyhow, TADAH!! It's quite a different style from the usual strappy summery sundresses that I usually make for her. Thought she needed something a little more appropriate for church that doesn't need a cardi to cover up.

Nani Iro for the bodice, a plain sky-blue double gauze for the skirt and ties, white voile for bodice lining. The Nani Iro was originally from a peasant dress that I had made for her earlier on, but she has since outgrown in ... *cries ... why do they grow up so fast*. That dress was deconstructed and because it was a maxi, I had just enough to cut out this bodice. Yay for upcycling! Also, it's the same fabric as the one I've used here. Another pair of matching outfits!

I love the sleeve details on the VFT Maisie and it's actually a lot easier than it looks! I don't really enjoy sewing plackets, they actually scare me. But the instructions for these are so clear, really a beginner could do it. I'd actually contemplated not doing the sleeves because of all the detail, but I would have seriously regretted it and would have ended up unpicking the sleeves and doing it anyway. It makes such a difference!

The front placket is an additional bit of frill that I've added on. It's super simple. All I did was add a rectangle of skirt fabric, sew on some of the crochet lace and 3 hand-sewn buttons. No pattern needed. The hardest part was making sure the buttons are in line! I don't think they are, but ... hey, I tried. And that's what matters, right? Right.

Another lovely detail (I'm just praising my own handiwork aren't I) is the exposed lace zipper at the back. The pattern includes instructions on how to install this on, but I ended up doing it my own way. Just a personal preference since I have sewn lace zippers on little pouches before. It adds a special touch to the dress and is a tad easier to install than a normal/invisible zipper.

Oh hey! Another small something added to the dress! Yes, I printed my own labels because I'm narcissistic. It's a dog under a tree!

A wrap-around hack for Angie

Finally! An update!!

I will not be letting my DH take pics of me anymore. He's really awful and makes me look awful. Maybe it's deliberate. Instead, I've decided to let DS takeover! Maybe his height makes for better angles. Or maybe you can tell the real enthusiasm and love coming from behind the lens. Or maybe, DH just really isn't very good.

Wadevas.

I haven't been updating for awhile, but it's not because I haven't been sewing. I have, and have been rather productive with an average of 2 pieces a month. It's just been really difficult to take nice pics, or I'm just too uninspired to post it up. I'll get round to it, promise.

Photobombed by a ridiculously happy Beeboo

It's the Sisboom Angie! Like finally. Tbh, I haven't been exceptionally drawn to this pattern even though it's one of the first pdf patterns I've purchased. I've seen gorgeous pics of them, but just didn't think it would look good on me. I've always been drawn to traditionally very feminine shapes, e.g. the Jenny and Carolina Mae, and thought the Angie would end up looking quite sack-like on me.

I suppose the only way it would look nicer on me would be to wear it with a wide belt. Or add a sash (which is included in the pattern). I've opted for the latter, but then went a little crazy with the additional modifications. Since I didn't like adding belt loops, and had to keep the sash at the waist, I modified the pattern to make it wrap from the back!

Confession-time: I didn't come up with the hacked pattern from scratch, though I did take the cue from adorable Jeanine over at the Scientific Seamstress blog! Link here to see her original post.

My pattern pieces were cut as instructed in her tutorial, but instead of basting the overlapping back pieces together, I've extended each one with an additional 44" (or WOF) x 4" of satin for the sash (double the width since the bodice is lined so it can be turned inside out and top-stitched ... argh I'm confusing myself with the typing). Also added a 4" slit in the left side seam so that the sash can emerge. Wow, I really suck at descriptions.

By the way, notice the fabric?? It's from an older collection, but so intricately designed. I had quite a bit of fun cutting the fabric to make sure that the patterns were centred, since I don't usually use such large prints. By the time I was done, there was just a tiny scrap of fabric left to make a pencil skirt for little cuddly.


I've finally found a reasonably-priced freight forwarder so I don't need to pay an average of S$20/yd (+shipping) of her fabric anymore. Woohoo! Have you seen her latest collection? Pretty!!

It's a park. Why am I not allowed to feed the birds? :(

Lunar New Year 2016

I've not posted for quite some time simply because I've forgotten that I have a blog.

For real, I've had a bunch of sewing done at the end of last year. Because of the nature of my work, I tend to sew in spurts - not revving up my machine for months on end, then sewing up a storm within a span of 2 weeks.

I've also not been able to get good pics, because I rely a lot on my phone camera and an unwilling spouse/child as photographer. Oh btw, have you seen the video on Instagram Husbands?? It's hilarious yet painfully true. Except mine doesn't 'gram, he uses one of those DSLR-things 'coz he's a camera snob like that. I hoard fabrics and patterns, he collects lenses and stuff. It's fair, except that he only likes to take pictures of underwater creatures.

I'll eventually get down to the details of each, but just some highlights that I've done for my Booboo and me for the Lunar New Year ...

Pattern is Ainslee Fox's Billie dress. I super love it and want to hack it for myself! I was contemplating between this and a baby cheongsam, but the weather has been hot and I didn't think she would like the mandarin collar. This is a more comfortable alternative, especially since I've used double gauze from Nani Iro Dear Mother;s Girlhood collection - one of my favourites.

The story behind this print is supposedly:

愛しき母の娘時代、それは一針一針刺していく刺繍の愛おしい創作の時間刺繍タッチを水彩で描き上げ、地模様の小花とのコントラストを美しく表現

So I don't read Japanese, but from the Kanji, I'm gathering that it's about a mother's love as she painstakingly hand-embroiders flower patterns for her daughter. Or something like that! (I hope someone can provide a more accurate translation ... pretty please?) Anyway, it's rather fitting and meaningful for matchy-matchy dresses, don't you think?

This self-drafted cheongsam has been on my to-do list forever. It's really a basic bodice block paired with a half-circle skirt, and a mandarin collar attached. I didn't want the usual slant opening because double gauze stretches out easily on the bias so the key-hole opening was just an impromptu cut out while I was attaching the bias trim. Nothing fanciful, just a simple dress to showcase beautiful fabric.

The most difficult part was pattern placement! Or trying best ways to showcase the coloured embroidered parts. The first time I did this, the flowers were upside-down :( The next best thing to salvage this fabulous (and also very expensive fabric) was to use it for Booboo's dress, which I did.

So what's next? 

I've lost a bit of my sewing mojo, sadly, especially for myself. I find it more enjoyable to sew little girl dresses but mine is growing up a wee bit too fast *cries*. I've started to make little bags and pouches for the boys in my life and it's quite a bit of instant gratification because these things sew up real quick and I never have to worry about things like fit, or if the fabric is scratchy etc. I also get to use up those little scraps that I've been saving up! 

Anna maxi in Cotton Satin

My second Anna, in my latest fabric obsession Cotton Satin.

After my first version, I'd relegated the pattern to the back of the pattern drawer as there were so many other exciting things to sew. Also, I thought the Anna was overdone, overhyped and not that special. Also tbh, it just isn't my usual style.

But then I re-read several versions and decided I needed to make a maxi version of the Anna with that thigh-high slit. I became obsessed with finding the perfect fabric for it since most of my stash consisted of 2m pieces, hardly sufficient for a maxi. I think the smallest amount for that would've been 2.5m, and the sewist was short like me.

So anyway, I embarked on this other Anna with many many adjustments. I don't think I've made so many adjustments to a pattern before! I guess BHL just doesn't suit me out of the packet :(

Love it. Makes me look like I have legs for miles.

This is the first time I'm making a six-gored skirt and for anyone attempting this for the first time, PLEASE CUT OUT THE NOTCHES. You can thank me later.

The skirt comes in seven pieces - 3 for the front and 4 for the back and they all look the same. But they are not the same (at least I don't think they are the same ...). Or at least mark them out somehow so you don't get them mixed up. Sewing the skirts without differentiating the pieces was like dealing with trapezoids from hell, especially since it is a maxi. So much length to unpick if you make a mistake.

Trust me on this one.

I did make a slit for this, but it was at a modest 2" above the knee. Because, y'know, I was wearing this to church.

The cotton satin is my latest fabric crush. It is easy to sew and is breezy comfortable like a cotton, but drapes like a heavy-weight rayon. Huge plus for not wrinkling easily too! The sales staff was demonstrating it to me by crushing the fabric in her hand and she said it hardly needs any ironing. I was sold. Too bad there isn't a wide selection of this, most of the prints were not so nice.

Oh, and this thing here ...

What in the fugly world is that? You might ask.

That ... was my attempt to salvage my pride. Because from the time I made my last Anna to this, I had somehow gained 2 inches to my waist and another several to my hips. What the.

It was a total mystery to me how that happened. I swear the late night kueh lapis suppers had nothing to do with this.

So the finished dress was unbreathably tight. I didn't even thing of making a muslin for this since the pattern worked fine 3 months ago. I was ready to toss this into the donation pile but I really wanted this to work. I wanted my Anna maxi dammit. 

So thank goodness I have the tenacity of a pug and the patience of a cow. There was so much unpicking to do, not just because of the length of the skirt, but also because I had decided to

It seemed like such a good idea at that time. Unpicking is a total poo to do though - because there is double the number of stitches, and you have to be really careful about the inner one because of the fragile little baby 1/8" seams.

Eventually it was done and replaced with a 2" wide strip. The tapering was really experimenting off the cuff to see what worked best though I would be happy to redo it if anyone can suggest a neater way of doing this!

[Side story: I got my hubs to help estimate the excess width required so after unpicking the side seams, I slipped the dress over my underwear and sashayed over. So it's a "dress" with no sides at all and though he's used to some of the crazy outfits that I wear, he could hardly himself back. "Uh...honey... isn't this a little too revealing?" HAHA. Yes my dear, it's my middle life crisis showing.]

Tiramisu Pencil Skirt in Ponte

After closing a couple of rather stressful projects and dealing with my kid's year-end exams, I really needed some sewing therapy to unwind my springs and to treat myself to a new dress. I was rather determined to give my wardrobe a makeover by replacing all the ill-fitting cheap polyester dresses with more me-made outfits. I'd pulled out about half of my collection for free-cycling and it was a lot less emotional than I had imagined it to be! Maybe I never really had any outstanding memories wearing those dresses, since they were mostly work clothes that were purchased just because I had nothing to wear and not because I really liked them.

So the point I was getting to was that now I need more work clothes! I've realised that even though I now have a growing collection of lovely me-made dresses, they weren't exactly suitable to more conservative work environments. Think fluffy sun-dresses. But then again, I did wear my Darth Vader Carolina Mae to a client meeting and it turned out ... interesting. We ended up talking about sewing!

My go-to dress for instant gratification is usually the Tiramisu, since you can't really get the fit too off and there are only 4 main bodice pieces minus the bands. My first navy one has been worn to death, I think I wear it at least once every 2 weeks! I'd made one for my mum and that was even more satisfying because she'd finally found her long-lost figure (It's just her imagination, her waistline never left her). She now wears that dress for her girly outings, and enjoys telling everyone that it is a handmade dress!

I needed another Tiramisu in my life but I like variety as well. I already have a deep eggplant-coloured ponte knit in my stash, which I heard was really suitable for making pencil dresses. So I did!

This is the first time I'm using ponte knit. It's thick, spongey and has a slight stretch. Except for the thickness, it was really easy to handle - almost like a woven, except that it wasn't easy to press. The fabric also seems to hold its shape well with minimal distortions.

The only gripe I have is possibly that it's not comfortable to wear in warm weather, certainly nothing compared with the T-shirt thin cotton knits that I usually use. It does feel heavier and more expensive though.

You have no idea how many pictures I've had to take without showing my lumps and bumps through the fabric ... lol. 

The bodice was constructed in the usual manner with no drama. The skirt portion was even easier! I wish I could say that I had drafted the pattern from scratch using precise measurements and a trusty old French curve but no. All I did was trace it off an existing RTW knit pencil skirt that I had... haha! I'm such a cheater.

My biggest worry then was not being able to pull the dress over my shoulders and I would have had to insert a zipper, but thank goodness that it wasn't necessary at all since the ponte was stretchier than I'd thought.

For some reason, the dress was poufing out badly at the back especially around my lower back. I didn't have this problem for the original half-circle skirt version. I wasn't sure if it was because of the stiffer material, or the tighter skirt?

So I put 2 darts in the back! If you look closely in the pic above, you can see where the darts are. I thought they were a bit strange because the darts run across the waistband into the bodice as well as down into the skirt but I'd rather have weird darts than an ill-fitting dress! Or I could also convince myself that it's part of the "design" and congratulate me on my clever-ness. Ha!

From this angle, you can see that the back fits properly now. In all likelihood, I could probably take 2" off from the centre back of the waistband and dart the bodice properly from there since that was the width I'd removed with the darts. 

Would I make another ponte pencil Tiramisu? Probably not. As much as I enjoyed the construction process, I prefer the freedom of frolicking around in fuller skirts! Ponte knit is also not so ideal in terms of comfort and breathability, so I'm likely gonna be sticking to my double gauzes, voiles and lawns.

Tilly and the Buttons Fifi: Pyjamas for grown ups

The Fifi is pretty much my pattern dark horse. When it was first released, I was a little sceptical - who would pay so much for a pattern for PJ's?? And how hard could it be to draft your own camisole and shorts set? As it turns out - very hard. Also, this is the first time I'm trying a pattern by Tilly and the Buttons but now I want to go back a get a couple more. Do they ever go on sale?

I must have read every single review and browsed through all the #sewingfifi posts on Instagram before splashing out on the pdf pattern, making this the most expensive pdf pattern I've ever purchased! I got so obsessed over it that I'm making my THIRD Fifi - not only to get more mileage out of the pattern, but also because it's cute, it's sexy, it's comfy and utterly wearable.

I think I am about done with making dresses for now since I don't get to wear them very often (or at least the fluffy, kitschy ones that I like to make). But PJ's on the other hand will get a lot of wear.

Speaking of obsession, I have been picturing this exact design in my dreams for the longest time.

I've tried to get the lighting and editing to show the colour as closely to the original as possible, but I am not very good at describing colours. It's ... uh ... maroon. The fabric is not silk nor satin. It's actually a medium-weight polyester that has a rather luxurious feel and fantastic drape. This only sells in the shops along Arab Street and is called "Silky Crepe" or "Sildoll". My other completed Fifi is with a Nani Iro double gauze (most comfortable pyjamas ever!!!!), while my work-in-progress is with a Cloud 9 voile. 

Only after making one did I appreciate all the thought that went into the design of what is essentially sleepwear. And why shouldn't pyjamas be given as many details as day wear? 

1. The defining highlight would probably be the pleated bra cups. I've not come across such a detail before! Most camisoles would have you gather the bust-line instead, though this is a lovely change.

2. Curved hems - this was such a nightmare to sew! I love the look of curved hems, but it is so difficult to get it right. 

There is a rippling / twisted effect which I was unable to press out, since this fabric is un-pressable. I've also seen them on many RTW garments, even those made of cotton. Does anyone have any tips on how to get rid of it? Or to hem curves without the ripple?

3. Every single seam is frenched, i.e. no exposed seams. So you can use all sorts of delicate fabrics as laces.

The black lace trim at the collar and hem of the shorts were hand-stitched on.

And look! It's little hearts. The lace is a little stretchy, and somehow my machine wasn't able to feed it nicely over the slippery fabric and edge-stitch it together. The needle kept veering off toward the lace and the stitches were uneven. Hence the hand-stitching, which I actually enjoyed since I was able to blind-stitch it so it doesn't show on the RS.

The finishing touch was a little rayon tassel that I found at Sing Mui Heng, a local crafts store.

I thought it gave the whole thing a rather burlesque feel, rather than having just a simple ribbon bow (too cutesy). 

Unfortunately, no modelling pics because it's too risque. Some things are better left unseen. Hubs said there are too many weirdos out on the internet :D I guess he wants to keep my Fifis to himself.

A shirtdress: Ethan / Angie mashup

My previous foray into shirt-making was really a prelude to what I really wanted to make - Shirt dresses!

I love me a good shirtdress. They are every occasion ready, can be dressed down or up, fits all body types and have a sweet retro feel to it. I've also probably broken every single grammar law in the last sentence.

Here a few of my inspirations ...

From Christian Dior's "New Look" collection in the 1950's

The immensely popular McCall's 6696 - in white cotton eyelet!

Modcloth, who doesn't love pies?

I love front button placket on the M6696 version, but prefer the half version on the Modcloth pie dress. I guess it could have been more straightforward to make an extended shirt but I wasn't too keen on having it button all the way down the front because it's just too much work. It's not very fun to have to sew so many buttons. Also imagine if you need to put the dress on in a hurry because you're late and having to fasten TEN tiny buttons. And you are already late. And you need to fasten TEN buttons through the teeny weeny buttonholes.

So I decided to make a half shirt-dress - apparently it's a proper term, it's not a term I'd just made up. Most such dresses require a side zip (like the Simplicity 2215), but I remembered that I had a genius pattern that nips in at the waist yet doesn't require a zipper - the Angie!

It's a little experimental since my first Angie failed when I wasn't able to pull the dress over my coat hanger shoulders without breaking a seam or two. This time around, I made sure to measure the circumference over my shoulders to ensure that I would be able to put the dress on without any more rips.

And it worked! I suppose I could have made a fuller skirt so it doesn't look so straight up-and-down, but I didn't have enough fabric for that. The sun was so bright when this picture was taken! Oh, oops ... there's an awkwardly placed button that's in the way and my belt doesn't sit properly.

Guess I would need to adjust the button positions! Good thing the belt is soft, so it just covers the button.

The back view which I'm still not very satisfied with. It looks poofy! The original intention was to make it look gathered toward the waist (like the Jenny, or the M6696), but it didn't happen. I'm also not able to make darts nor gather the bottom hem or I wouldn't be able to slide the dress over my shoulders. If anyone has any ideas on how to make it work, please let me know!

(I didn't switch belts in between photos, it's actually a sash that looks like woven faux leather in the front, and tied up with a fabric bow in the back.)

The main fabric was a quilting cotton remnant from a thrift store, and looked like someone's attempt at tie-dying cloth. It looks really loopy. The collar and front placket are made up of a stiff white cotton, and I've used larger 18mm fabric-covered buttons just for fun.

Again, I wanted to show just how neat it looks on the inside, since my last attempt at this wasn't too clear. The shoulder seams are enclosed within the back yoke. See how psychedelic the print is? It reminds me of the old sea-green marble floor tiles from the 1970's.

Another WIP shot after the collar and collar stand has been attached, and still no exposed seams! There is quite a bit of top-stitching involved though, so it helps to have a good machine. Making a cameo appearance is my baby Janome 525S, which also makes beautiful button-holes.

I'm addicted to making shirt(waist) dresses now. Tbh, this is actually meant to be a toile using cheapo material so that I can do up the real thing in something dearer ... like a Nani Iro! With a lace back yoke (would it work? hmm ... )! And pockets!!