Tilly and the Buttons Fifi: Pyjamas for grown ups

The Fifi is pretty much my pattern dark horse. When it was first released, I was a little sceptical - who would pay so much for a pattern for PJ's?? And how hard could it be to draft your own camisole and shorts set? As it turns out - very hard. Also, this is the first time I'm trying a pattern by Tilly and the Buttons but now I want to go back a get a couple more. Do they ever go on sale?

I must have read every single review and browsed through all the #sewingfifi posts on Instagram before splashing out on the pdf pattern, making this the most expensive pdf pattern I've ever purchased! I got so obsessed over it that I'm making my THIRD Fifi - not only to get more mileage out of the pattern, but also because it's cute, it's sexy, it's comfy and utterly wearable.

I think I am about done with making dresses for now since I don't get to wear them very often (or at least the fluffy, kitschy ones that I like to make). But PJ's on the other hand will get a lot of wear.

Speaking of obsession, I have been picturing this exact design in my dreams for the longest time.

I've tried to get the lighting and editing to show the colour as closely to the original as possible, but I am not very good at describing colours. It's ... uh ... maroon. The fabric is not silk nor satin. It's actually a medium-weight polyester that has a rather luxurious feel and fantastic drape. This only sells in the shops along Arab Street and is called "Silky Crepe" or "Sildoll". My other completed Fifi is with a Nani Iro double gauze (most comfortable pyjamas ever!!!!), while my work-in-progress is with a Cloud 9 voile. 

Only after making one did I appreciate all the thought that went into the design of what is essentially sleepwear. And why shouldn't pyjamas be given as many details as day wear? 

1. The defining highlight would probably be the pleated bra cups. I've not come across such a detail before! Most camisoles would have you gather the bust-line instead, though this is a lovely change.

2. Curved hems - this was such a nightmare to sew! I love the look of curved hems, but it is so difficult to get it right. 

There is a rippling / twisted effect which I was unable to press out, since this fabric is un-pressable. I've also seen them on many RTW garments, even those made of cotton. Does anyone have any tips on how to get rid of it? Or to hem curves without the ripple?

3. Every single seam is frenched, i.e. no exposed seams. So you can use all sorts of delicate fabrics as laces.

The black lace trim at the collar and hem of the shorts were hand-stitched on.

And look! It's little hearts. The lace is a little stretchy, and somehow my machine wasn't able to feed it nicely over the slippery fabric and edge-stitch it together. The needle kept veering off toward the lace and the stitches were uneven. Hence the hand-stitching, which I actually enjoyed since I was able to blind-stitch it so it doesn't show on the RS.

The finishing touch was a little rayon tassel that I found at Sing Mui Heng, a local crafts store.

I thought it gave the whole thing a rather burlesque feel, rather than having just a simple ribbon bow (too cutesy). 

Unfortunately, no modelling pics because it's too risque. Some things are better left unseen. Hubs said there are too many weirdos out on the internet :D I guess he wants to keep my Fifis to himself.

A shirtdress: Ethan / Angie mashup

My previous foray into shirt-making was really a prelude to what I really wanted to make - Shirt dresses!

I love me a good shirtdress. They are every occasion ready, can be dressed down or up, fits all body types and have a sweet retro feel to it. I've also probably broken every single grammar law in the last sentence.

Here a few of my inspirations ...

From Christian Dior's "New Look" collection in the 1950's

The immensely popular McCall's 6696 - in white cotton eyelet!

Modcloth, who doesn't love pies?

I love front button placket on the M6696 version, but prefer the half version on the Modcloth pie dress. I guess it could have been more straightforward to make an extended shirt but I wasn't too keen on having it button all the way down the front because it's just too much work. It's not very fun to have to sew so many buttons. Also imagine if you need to put the dress on in a hurry because you're late and having to fasten TEN tiny buttons. And you are already late. And you need to fasten TEN buttons through the teeny weeny buttonholes.

So I decided to make a half shirt-dress - apparently it's a proper term, it's not a term I'd just made up. Most such dresses require a side zip (like the Simplicity 2215), but I remembered that I had a genius pattern that nips in at the waist yet doesn't require a zipper - the Angie!

It's a little experimental since my first Angie failed when I wasn't able to pull the dress over my coat hanger shoulders without breaking a seam or two. This time around, I made sure to measure the circumference over my shoulders to ensure that I would be able to put the dress on without any more rips.

And it worked! I suppose I could have made a fuller skirt so it doesn't look so straight up-and-down, but I didn't have enough fabric for that. The sun was so bright when this picture was taken! Oh, oops ... there's an awkwardly placed button that's in the way and my belt doesn't sit properly.

Guess I would need to adjust the button positions! Good thing the belt is soft, so it just covers the button.

The back view which I'm still not very satisfied with. It looks poofy! The original intention was to make it look gathered toward the waist (like the Jenny, or the M6696), but it didn't happen. I'm also not able to make darts nor gather the bottom hem or I wouldn't be able to slide the dress over my shoulders. If anyone has any ideas on how to make it work, please let me know!

(I didn't switch belts in between photos, it's actually a sash that looks like woven faux leather in the front, and tied up with a fabric bow in the back.)

The main fabric was a quilting cotton remnant from a thrift store, and looked like someone's attempt at tie-dying cloth. It looks really loopy. The collar and front placket are made up of a stiff white cotton, and I've used larger 18mm fabric-covered buttons just for fun.

Again, I wanted to show just how neat it looks on the inside, since my last attempt at this wasn't too clear. The shoulder seams are enclosed within the back yoke. See how psychedelic the print is? It reminds me of the old sea-green marble floor tiles from the 1970's.

Another WIP shot after the collar and collar stand has been attached, and still no exposed seams! There is quite a bit of top-stitching involved though, so it helps to have a good machine. Making a cameo appearance is my baby Janome 525S, which also makes beautiful button-holes.

I'm addicted to making shirt(waist) dresses now. Tbh, this is actually meant to be a toile using cheapo material so that I can do up the real thing in something dearer ... like a Nani Iro! With a lace back yoke (would it work? hmm ... )! And pockets!! 

SB Ethan hack and Donuts

I've made a shirt! Darn proud of myself too, since shirts are supposed to be an "intermediate" level project.

I have always wanted a sleeveless button-down, and I could have bought a perfectly made linen or rayon one from Uniqlo, but then it wouldn't have donuts on it! Or roosters, or kittens playing with yarn balls, or more pugs sunbathing at the beach - you see, I have already lined up my to-sew list with quite a few more of these shirts just looking at my ever-growing stash of cutesy prints!

My last attempt was a terrible failure. I had followed the Simplicity 2215, but the facings totally stumped me out. How on earth does one get them to lie nice and flat? I figured it was just a weird pattern (totally not my fault, right) so the next thing was to consult the great Google on the more popular indie patterns, and perennial favourites such as Grainline Studio's Alder / Archer and Sewaholic's Granville. I wanted a more fitted version of the Alder and was almost going to purchase the Granville, but then I remembered that I have a copy of the Sis Boom / Scientific Seamstress' Ethan pattern (or Marco, for the adult sizes) somewhere in my collection. I had originally wanted to use it to make some nice shirts for my son (since his sister gets all the pretty mum-made dresses) as he is very particular about the fabric because of his sensitive skin. Using a boy's size 12 (corresponding to my chest circumference), I then proceeded to make a few pattern adjustments and hoped for the best.

I am currently taking a short course on pattern-drafting but this was done prior to any classes so the adjustments here are very arbitrary and non-technical.

1. Brought shoulder width in by 1", though I could have made it 2" so that it cuts in a bit more flatteringly.

2. Removed about 1" from the lower arm-scye and raised it up by about 0.5". The point was then extended downwards to meet the hemline with adjustments for seam allowance.

3. Added 1" waist-darts to the front, and 1.5" darts on the back pattern (not shown). The original fit was relaxed and hung straight down since it's a boy's pattern but I wanted a bit more shape to this. I was able to do away with bust darts, but this can be added in where required. Bust darts require quite a bit more adjustments though, including lengthening of the hemline and deciding where the apex is.

If I were to make this shirt again, I would cut the shoulders in a bit more and widen the bottom hem width. This boy's shirt does not quite accommodate the width of my child-bearing hips :P Oh and also make the button placket on the right-hand side instead of the left - apparently men's shirts button on the left and women's on the right?

Construction-wise was rather uneventful - which is a good thing. The instructions were flawless as usual, and made the whole endeavour quite enjoyable.

Close-up of the collar and collar stand. And donuts with vanilla frosting. And chocolate donuts. And strawberry cream donuts. With sprinklessssss .....

What exactly am I trying to show here? It's the inside of the shirt! Aside from the side seams, every thing else is enclosed within the back yoke so it's really neat. No exposed shoulder seams! No flappy facings!

I'm a sucker for pretty insides, and this gave it a very professional finish. 

Armholes were simply finished with a hot pink cotton bias tape. 

I was able to fully utilise 1 yard of cotton for this, so it's a great stash-buster. I'm think of making a shirt-dress next! Maybe an Ethan x Angie hack?

[Note: I did the Ethan x Angie hack!! Click on link :)]