Tuesday 1 September 2015

SB Ethan hack and Donuts

I've made a shirt! Darn proud of myself too, since shirts are supposed to be an "intermediate" level project.


I have always wanted a sleeveless button-down, and I could have bought a perfectly made linen or rayon one from Uniqlo, but then it wouldn't have donuts on it! Or roosters, or kittens playing with yarn balls, or more pugs sunbathing at the beach - you see, I have already lined up my to-sew list with quite a few more of these shirts just looking at my ever-growing stash of cutesy prints!

My last attempt was a terrible failure. I had followed the Simplicity 2215, but the facings totally stumped me out. How on earth does one get them to lie nice and flat? I figured it was just a weird pattern (totally not my fault, right) so the next thing was to consult the great Google on the more popular indie patterns, and perennial favourites such as Grainline Studio's Alder / Archer and Sewaholic's Granville. I wanted a more fitted version of the Alder and was almost going to purchase the Granville, but then I remembered that I have a copy of the Sis Boom / Scientific Seamstress' Ethan pattern (or Marco, for the adult sizes) somewhere in my collection. I had originally wanted to use it to make some nice shirts for my son (since his sister gets all the pretty mum-made dresses) as he is very particular about the fabric because of his sensitive skin. Using a boy's size 12 (corresponding to my chest circumference), I then proceeded to make a few pattern adjustments and hoped for the best.


I am currently taking a short course on pattern-drafting but this was done prior to any classes so the adjustments here are very arbitrary and non-technical.

1. Brought shoulder width in by 1", though I could have made it 2" so that it cuts in a bit more flatteringly.

2. Removed about 1" from the lower arm-scye and raised it up by about 0.5". The point was then extended downwards to meet the hemline with adjustments for seam allowance.

3. Added 1" waist-darts to the front, and 1.5" darts on the back pattern (not shown). The original fit was relaxed and hung straight down since it's a boy's pattern but I wanted a bit more shape to this. I was able to do away with bust darts, but this can be added in where required. Bust darts require quite a bit more adjustments though, including lengthening of the hemline and deciding where the apex is.

If I were to make this shirt again, I would cut the shoulders in a bit more and widen the bottom hem width. This boy's shirt does not quite accommodate the width of my child-bearing hips :P Oh and also make the button placket on the right-hand side instead of the left - apparently men's shirts button on the left and women's on the right?

Construction-wise was rather uneventful - which is a good thing. The instructions were flawless as usual, and made the whole endeavour quite enjoyable.


Close-up of the collar and collar stand. And donuts with vanilla frosting. And chocolate donuts. And strawberry cream donuts. With sprinklessssss .....


What exactly am I trying to show here? It's the inside of the shirt! Aside from the side seams, every thing else is enclosed within the back yoke so it's really neat. No exposed shoulder seams! No flappy facings!

I'm a sucker for pretty insides, and this gave it a very professional finish. 


Armholes were simply finished with a hot pink cotton bias tape. 

I was able to fully utilise 1 yard of cotton for this, so it's a great stash-buster. I'm think of making a shirt-dress next! Maybe an Ethan x Angie hack?

[Note: I did the Ethan x Angie hack!! Click on link :)]


4 comments:

  1. i'm so glad i came across your blog! SG sewing blogs are so hard to come by... love the Ethan x Angie hack!!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Always happy to meet a fellow SG sewist! There are actually a few groups of us in Facebook

      Delete